Big swagger, bigger hair and lashings of stonewashed denim stormed the runway at Miu Miu’s autumn/winter 2018 show in Paris on Tuesday afternoon.
In a showspace hung with paintings of women corresponding to every letter of the alphabet — the invitation said this exemplified “the Miu Miu type” — Miuccia Prada invoked the spirit of Amy Winehouse and ‘bad’ girls everywhere.
The beauty set the tone: hair came backcombed and bouffanted into exaggerated beehives or greased down like the barnet of a teenager on her third all-nighter. Adolescent skin and sharpie-style cat-eye flicks underscored the devil-may-care attitude.
The clothes were, well, exceedingly 1980s in style. Grey stonewashed jeans with stretchy waistlines went with balloon-sleeved bomber jackets in the same fabric. Those jackets proved a through-line; in leather, denim or overblown tweeds, they had dropped shoulders and a big, billowy cut that made them look like she’d borrowed them from her boyfriend or dad.
As always, the accessories looked like the real take-home message. Sharp acetate cat-eye sunglasses and sparkly flats will fly off shelves, even if the thigh-split minidresses in dusty rose leather (and all that stonewashing) languish.
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Miu Miu is Prada’s little sister of a brand, so it makes sense that in a season when she explored taking back the night with her mainline show, she’d want her younger brand to embody rebellious, bad-girl spirit. If only she’d made it look more like fun than a cautionary tale — with the exception of Elle Fanning, who looked like she was relishing her latest role as runway model.